Throughout the Oyster River community, there are a plethora of local stores, restaurants, and small businesses selling their specialty dishes at an often-reasonable price. I realized that oftentimes people don’t take the time to visit these places, in favor of larger more well-known places. This is a guide for people who want to experience the best local food that the community has to offer.
Calef ’s Country Store in Barrington has been a beloved staple of the community for over 150 years. While it is a more well-known location, many people only see it for its charming country store aesthetic. What I think more people should consider is their vast cheese selection. Sourced from local farms with classic old timey flavors, Calef ’s cheese is so good that it’s not uncommon to see a bumper sticker promoting it, plastered with the slogan “Got Calef ’s Cheese?” (I have one). Andy Tompkins, the general manager at Calef ’s, has become well acquainted with the process of purveying cheese. “Farms reach out to us when they have a new flavor or batch they think we’d like.”
With a reputation this great I had a lot of high expectations. I went and purchased their famous “Rat Trap Cheddar,” a cheese aged for 18 months, described as having a “creamy texture and mild taste” by Tompkins.
As the first bite hit my tastebuds, I understood why it was so famous. It had a rich and creamy texture, but a sharp taste–the best of both worlds. I had already eaten a fair bit before reviewing the cheese, but I found myself carving off another slice, then another. That might have been the best part of this cheese. It was just so good no matter how much you ate. It almost had a light quality to it, the creaminess combined with the aging process perhaps made the cheese airier than others, allowing for perfect binging conditions.
Calef ’s Country Store is a necessary stop when you’re in Barrington. With its laid-back vibes and proud country store traditions, you’re bound to find something you like. But maybe next time you’re there, pick up some cheese. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
The next place on this list has been around for a lot less time than Calef ’s staggering century and a half. Dahab falafel company opened just two years ago by owner Asaf “Asi” Asadorian, as part of the Tideline food truck projects.
This restaurant has become well renowned by falafel lovers of the area, serving up a traditional Middle Eastern style falafel, which contrasts the grainier and softer Mediterranean style falafel commonly found in this area. Dahab’s falafel has a more herbal flavor with a stronger consistency, which makes it less likely to crumble while you eat it.
Apart from the excellent falafel, Dahab has many other Middle Eastern dishes, one of the most popular being their chicken shawarma. The tender chicken mixed with a healthy dose of shawarma seasoning pairs perfectly with the soft pita and the refreshing salads.
Speaking of pita, you haven’t had it until you have had it fresh. And that’s the only way Dahab serves theirs. Made in-house each morning, it’s always soft and doughy, way better than any cheap store-bought junk.
Dahab has two main options for serving their food. Want the classic? Go with the pita sandwich, which consists of hummus, Israeli salad, red cabbage salad, and a main item of your choosing, all stuffed within a pita. Feeling adventurous? Get a platter! A platter consists of your choice of four sides, with a pita included. My personal favorite side is the majadra, which is rice with lentils, onions, and lots of spices.
Middle Eastern food is hard to find done well in the area, so having Dahab around is truly a blessing. This is especially true for Muslims, with it being one of the only places to find certified Halal chicken in the Oyster River area.
Another new restaurant in the area is Durham’s very own sushi place, Sushi-to-go! Located in the heart of downtown, known for their hard to beat prices and fast service, I think it’s definitely a worthwhile place to check out.
The store opened up only about three months ago, and I’ve already been three times. What keeps me coming back? The speed of service. Ever craving sushi at lunchtime? If you’re a junior or senior with privilege, those 35 minutes are the perfect amount of time to go get your fill. With a wide variety of rolls and bowls, as well as both cooked and raw options, there is something for everyone.
The poké bowl is probably the best bang for your buck item. Coming in at roughly $14 after tax, you get rice, refreshing veggies, a healthy serving of cubed fish of your choice [Salmon, Tuna (my favorite), and yellowtail], as well as spicy or teriyaki sauce. The fish is fresh in taste and color, and the rice is served warm which nicely contrasts with the rest of the dish, creating a dynamic that will keep you coming back for another bite.
Another dish I would recommend is the rainbow roll. At around $8 per roll, the amount of fish that you get is surprising. The sauce, avocado, and fish resting across the top create a fun yet delicate roll.
While I think that some of their warm dishes are lacking in comparison to their cold ones, I think that a trip to Sushi-to-go will brighten up anyone’s day.
While most of these restaurants are open year-round, there is one seasonal restaurant in particular that deserves some coverage. Lee Circle Grocer on Wheels, commonly known as LCG, has been serving up the community’s finest sandwiches for as long as anyone can remember.
If you’re looking for game day grub, LCG is your place. With a menu packed with various burgers, hoagies, and chicken options, any party will be satisfied. LCG is a to-go only business and can see a lot of orders during the busy season, but never seems to have too long of a wait.
My personal favorite of theirs is their rodeo burger, consisting of a large patty, onion ring, barbecue sauce, and traditional burger toppings all in between a large brioche bun. Their burgers are always juicy, and the barbecue sauce gives the sandwich a more robust flavor. Coupled with the crunch of the onion rings and lettuce, this burger gets five big booms from me.
Another LCG classic is their buffalo wings. The main attraction of these wings is the sauce, which they never skimp on. Get yourself some fries on the side to soak up that extra sauce and you are golden. The wings are always tender and fall off the bone, which I think should be standard for wings (but unfortunately, it’s not). Served with bleu cheese, an order of these might end up being less of a ‘for sharing’ appetizer.
This coming spring, LCG will open back up for business. You can find them across from the Market Basket plaza on route 125 approaching the circle.
While this guide is not comprehensive, and there are certainly more places to check out, these are my top choices for people looking to broaden their palette. Bon appetite!
-Ian Hilfiker
Visuals courtesy of Colin Caron
Mouth of the River 
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